Top critical review
Too much garnish
10 May 2017
Dude sure can write, but there just wasn't enough information (he was willing) to give to warrant a full book, so there's a lot of garnish. To augment the real interesting stuff about how the industry works and his insight into food, you also get biographies of people you don't know or care about and endless lists: at the end he even lists his staff.
Now it's 2017, what this book does show, though, is how our relationship with food has changed in the last 15 years. This book describes the craziness of the pass, for example, which I can understand must have been mythical back in the heady days of the year 2000, but with countless TV shows, books and magazines all devoted to "running a kitchen" now, it kind of seems almost quaint. The pride he takes in doing it well is undermined by our understanding that anyone can do it if they're willing to follow their "food dream". (Masterchef and My Kitchen Rules in Australia have a lot to be blamed for. Every bottom-feeder now knows you can't 'plate up' without ensuring something 'brings it all together').