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In My Kitchen: A Collection of New and Favorite Vegetarian Recipes Hardcover – 17 July 2017
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"Madison is terrific at that rare thing: making food that is simultaneously both plain and creative; wholesome yet also inventive and on-trend." --LOS ANGELES TIMES COOKBOOK OF THE MONTH "Calling all vegetarians: If you don't already know Deborah Madison, the time is now. For over 30 years, she's been churning out cookbooks full of elegant, dependable and totally meat-free dishes. Her latest has plenty of classics, with updated twists to reflect the modern palate--kale, quinoa, chia seeds and nut butters abound." --PUREWOW.COM "Beloved vegetarian icon Deborah Madison gathered her greatest hits along with new dishes to create this recipe compendium." --MODERN FARMER "In My Kitchen represents wonderful simplicity and refinement. Madison achieves a state of culinary bliss with an offhand expertise. . . This level of restraint and confidence is what one hopes for but rarely finds in our foodie superheroes." --Christopher Kimball, MILK STREET KITCHEN
From the Publisher
Tomato And Red Pepper Tart In A Yeasted Crust
Makes one 10- or 11-inch tart
A savory jam of sweet late-summer vegetables makes for a very succulent tart. A bit of time is involved since you’re doing it all from scratch, so think of this as a special offering at the table and, by all means, wait until produce is at its best. Late summer is the time to make this, when sweet plump peppers are in the market and roma tomatoes have a chance of actually being good. Winter? Don’t bother.
The time involved in making the filling will give a yeasted dough time to rise; so start the dough first, unless you wish to make the filling hours ahead of time. A yeast-risen dough allows you to use olive oil, and it’s easy to make. Such doughs are angelic to handle plus they end up with golden, sculpted surfaces. However, you must roll it very thin if you don’t want a big doughy crust at the end.
An egg contributes to the strength and suppleness of the dough, but if you don’t eat eggs, you can replace it with 3 tablespoons of water and 1 tablespoon of oil. As for flour, use whatever mixture of flour appeals to you—rye, toasted barley, quinoa, or spelt flour might go into a mix along with wheat flour or a gluten-free mixture.
You will have dough left over. It’s hard to make less, but you can refrigerate it and use it later for impromptu dinner rolls or a pizza crust.
The Yeasted Dough
- 1 package (2¼ teaspoons) active dry yeast
- ½ teaspoon sugar
- ½ cup warm water
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 egg, lightly beaten
- 3⁄8 teaspoon salt
- 1¾ cups all-purpose flour, white whole-wheat flour, or a mixture, including spelt, rye, or other flours
To Make The Yeasted Dough
Dissolve the yeast and sugar in the water and let stand until it’s bubbly, about 10 minutes. Whisk the oil, egg, and salt together with the proofed yeast, then stir in the flour. When the dough is too stiff to work with a spoon, turn it onto a lightly floured counter and knead until smooth and elastic, about 4 minutes. Add flour to keep it from sticking, but aim to keep the dough on the wet and tacky side. (If you live in a very dry climate, your flour will be extra dry and you may not be able to use entire amount called for.) Set the dough in an oiled bowl and turn it over to coat, cover with a towel or a shower cap and let rise until doubled in bulk, 45 minutes to an hour, depending on how warm your kitchen is.
Turn the dough out. Roll it out into a thin circle (or other shape appropriate to the pan you’re using) and line a tart shell with it. If you’re not ready to fill the tart just then, put in the refrigerator so that it doesn’t continue to rise.
To Make The Tart Filling
Warm the oil over medium heat in a wide skillet, add the onions, and cook until soft, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic, tomatoes, and diced peppers along with the crumbled saffron threads and aniseed. Season with ½ teaspoon of salt and a little pepper. Cook for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, especially toward the end. It should be quite thick. Taste for salt and stir in the basil.
Heat the oven to 400°F. Set the tart shell on a baking sheet. Add the filling to the shell and smooth it out. Use the pepper strips to make a crisscross design over the top. Place the olives in the spaces formed by the peppers. Bake for 35 minutes. Carefully unmold the tart onto a platter and serve warm or at room temperature.
The Tart Filling
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 large red onions, finely diced
- 2 plump garlic cloves, minced or pounded to a paste
- 1½ pounds ripe roma or other paste tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
- 3 large red bell peppers, roasted and peeled; 2 diced, 1 cut into thin strips
- A good pinch of saffron threads, if possible
- ¼ teaspoon aniseed
- Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
- 2 tablespoons chopped basil
- 16 Niçoise olives, pitted
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This book fits the bill perfectly as a starting point. There are many interesting and appealing recipes which, when combined with Madison's thoughts on flavour and menus, represent an excellent resource to help me develop my cooking in a new direction.
In addition it has substantial longevity as a collection of quality receipes if you are simply looking for the occasional dish or two, Highly recommended.
Top international reviews
To whet your appetite, here is a selection of recipes from the book, some of which I have tried out, others will need to wait until the seasonal ingredients become available. There's a lovely smoky-spice butter designed to counteract the sweetness of carrots, sweet potatoes & squashes which it does very well (later there is a carrot soup where this butter can be used as an alternative to the onion relish included in the recipe); bulghur & green lentil salad with chick peas & preserved lemon which is a great winter salad; a lovely citrus & avocado salad with a lime & cumin vinaigrette. There is a great aubergine gratin with a custard of ricotta & saffron, some delicious ricotta fritters, a nice variation on red lentil soup enhanced with an Ethiopian spice mix for which a recipe is provided (coriander seeds, allspice berries, fenugreek, cardamom, chilli, paprika, ginger & nutmeg); a chickpea and potato stew; sweet potato & coconut curry; several recipes involving tofu; a gorgeous tomato & red pepper tart; another curry, this time involving tomatoes and cauliflower. For breakfast there is a lovely mix of oats, dried cherries, raisins and almonds - the slightly sour flavour of the cherries works well with the raisins and nuts. For dessert I liked the look of white peaches in lemon verbena syrup - roll on the summer when I can try this out, and also the quinces braised in honey & wine.
There are a few things that will be unfamiliar to, and in all likelihood unavailable to, a non-American cook such as the collard greens (not something I like anyway and I am not really sure there is a European alternative). A specific potato is used in a number of recipes, called a fingerling - I used charlotte potatoes as an alternative which seemed to work OK. In addition there are perhaps too many recipes for things I am not fond of - kale, chard, porcini. There were also recipes which duplicate others I have, and more where a recipe seems almost superfluous. My own view is that this isn't Deborah Madison's best book (The Green's Cookbook would top my list).
One downside is that recipes have not been converted to European measures but the photography is beautiful.
Most important they're good.
The edges were banged up a little
I am not sending it back
Fantastic easy recipes
Her experience and dedication is hard to beat
An heirloom, a healthy living guide