EVGA 600 B1, 80+ Bronze 600W, 3 Year Warranty, Includes Free Power On Self Tester, Power Supply 100-B1-0600-KR
- EVGA 600 B1 - "Performance Meets Value"
- 80 PLUS Bronze certified, with up to 85% efficiency under typical loads
- Fan Size / Bearing: 120mm Sleeve Bearing
- 3 Year Warranty and unparalleled EVGA Customer Support
- Heavy-duty protections, including OVP (Over Voltage Protection), UVP (Under Voltage Protection), OCP (Over Current Protection), OPP (Over Power Protection), and SCP (Short Circuit Protection)
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I decided to open this Evga 450BT and check is circuited, I was surprised by what I found.
The unit uses common forward topology (check this out in order to understand this review better).
Starting on the mains, the unit has a Ceramic fuse right behind the power switch, I can't read its rating, but hey nice to see a ceramic fuse instead of a glass one. Altough it is very badly placed and can't be replaced easily, you will need to desolder the smaller board behind the power switch in order to change the fuse.
Moving on we have 4 Class X2 caps and 7 class Y caps, a bit overkill, we also have 2 common mode inductors at the input, this is for EMI suppression, we also have a varistor after the fuse, (can't read its rating as it is inside a heatshrink, although it is very likely 275V AC), what this does it that if the mains voltage gets too high, the varistor shorts the mains and opens the fuse,
Now we get to the main bridge rectifier, it has no printing on front, this is really odd (it might be facing the heatsink), however it isn't much to worry about, the high voltage side of these PSU's operates with low currents.
After the rectifier we have a 0.47uF polypropylene cap (again more EMI protection), along with the main filter cap, which is a 400V 270 uF teapo cap rated for 105 degrees, the main cap comes after a relay and a thermisistor, the thermisistor is there in order to reduce the high start current of the main capacitor, there's also a huge inductor used for the active PFC.
The main switching transistors and the PFC transistor are 5R280CE, these are also with the bridge rectifier heatsink and are rated for 11 Amps are 100 degree centigrade,
The secondary uses two S30M60C in parallel for the 12V, each are rated for 30A at 100 degrees (giving 60A total at 100 degrees), again more overkill for a unit rated at 35A for 12V. All secondary caps are also teapo 105 degrees.
12V: The previously mentioned diodes -> Common mode inductor (shared with 5V) -> 2200 uF capacitor -> Another inductor -> 1000 uF capacitor.
5V: One S30M45C -> 1500 uF cap -> Inductor -> 1500 uF cap.
3.3V: Mag amp -> One S30M45C -> 3300 uF cap -> Inductor -> 1500 uF cap.
-12V: An SMD diode under the PCB (Can't read the model) -> 220 uF cap -> Inductor -> 330 uF cap.
5VSB: One S30M60C -> Inductor -> 1500 uF cap.
So almost all rails have their own pi filter. This is essential to keep ripple as low as possible.
The controller chips are a FAN4800C and a EM8564A, on the secondary we have a GR8323.
The output wires are all black, 18 gauge and rated for 80 degrees.
Overall the unit is very good ans should be perfectly capable of delivering its rated wattage, and even a bit more depending of how the over current protection is tweaked. The level of overkill of this unit is something you would expect of a unit worth several times the value of this one.
Edit: The main bridge rectifier is a GBU806 (had to remove the heatsink), nice.
Edit2: The varistor is a 10D561K, not the right part for this, it's clamping voltage is well beyond of what the GBU806 can take. They should have used a 10D431K instead.
Edit3: I had one unit die. Almost all diodes at the secondary failed short, and there was damage to the relay circuit at the primary side. Really odd.
Edit4: Fixed it. I still don't know what caused the diodes to die, I suspect that since this unit lacks OTP, was in a really hot place (ambient temp gets as high as 37 degrees centigrade very often here) with not much airflow for its fan, was running a PC with one RX480 and one GTX1060 mining 24/7, and that the unit controls the fan speed (likely uses the voltage drop across the shunts as reference for the fan speed). The diodes likely degraded because they were too hot and the fan was not maxed out.
I also had replace a transistor at the primary side that turns the unit on, Apparently the unit suffers a hysteresis issue, when it failed I could hear the relay switching rapidly. The transistor is an NPN one with a Y1 mark on top of it. The transistor had a 16V zener diode next to it that also failed.
Edit5: There's an NTC next to the secondary heatsink (was hidden by some black glue) that controls de fan speed, and it isn't working, I hit it wit the soldering iron and the fan speed doesn't change in the sightless. That explains it all, that fan always ran at minimum speed.
I bought this product (EVGA 650 BQ, 80+ BRONZE 650W) after using it 2 weeks, computer wont torn on. After diagnose my PC in certified service center resolution was “power supply is damaged”. After that I contacted EVGA and after a month of communication and sending more than 12 mails finally got RMA (Return Merchandise Authorization), but there was a catch.
To get product fixed or get replaced I must send it to Germany. I live in Republic of Georgia and sending power supply to Germany will cost more than power supply itself.
Don’t by products from EVGA it isn’t reliable and in case of problem you will grow old to get RMA . In case if you are lucky to get RMA shipping will cost more than product you bought.
DON'T BUY PRODUCTS FROM EVGA,
AND WARRANTY IS BIG ZERO
1 the 8 pin CPU is extremely short. Took me nearly half an hour to rig it to reach my 8 pin which is located directly beside the rear grommet. The dual 4 pin for the CPU DO NOT connect together so getting them both in with such a short cable was beyond frustrating. However the biggest issue is NO PROPER 8 PIN GPU CONNECTORS !!! They give u 3 dual connectors but they are all 8+6 pin. So I cant even wire up my 1080 without having hideous 6 pins dangling. Extremely disappointed.
On the bright side I purchased this psu to use cable mod cables so I will be throwing the stock evga cables where they belong. In the trash.
Easy to install. A lot less cable clutter inside the case (Thanks to modular cables). I like the fact that it came with a PSU testing tool - simple bridged 24 pin male connector, emulating that on the MOBO that you plug onto the corresponding ATX (20 + 4) pin cable and test the PSU before installing it. It is a simple test: the fan in the PSU either starts or doesn't when, connected to the AC power outlet, the PSU switch is set to ON. Mine was good. Its already installed and works perfectly.
I'm taking out a star because even though the packaging came undamaged and in perfect outside condition, one of the prongs on the power cable plug arrived bent (see pictures). Without damage on the packaging it means that the cable wasn't properly checked during package assembly at factory. However It took a set of pliers and a careful - gentle twist to set it straight again and, as explained, pre-installation test showed a working product. So, no big deal, but a call to attention at quality control during packaging. It is said that "the devil is in the details".