A brilliantly told tale of doing things because you love them even if you are not overly talented at them and convention suggests that you're too old to be doing them. The beauty of this book is in following the author's struggle, sharing in his (sometimes small) triumphs and empathizing with his setbacks. I've ready many surfing books and what really chimes with me about this one is that it is the story of what most of us go through learning to surf. There is no moment of epiphany when it all just clicks into place, no previously unknown and untapped natural talent - just struggle and perseverance. It's the classic thing of life being a journey, not a destination and if you don't love the journey - even when it's hard - what's the point?
Of course, as a 40-something who returned to skateboarding (longboarding) later in life and started surfing even later I might be a little biased! :-)
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About the Author
David Flanagan is an award-winning journalist and writer based in the Orkney Islands, Scotland. Born, raised and educated in Edinburgh, he studied journalism in the city and worked briefly for the Edinburgh Evening News before deciding daily newspapers weren't really his thing. After returning to his ancestral home of Orkney in 1990, he spent three years as a reporter with local weekly newspaper, The Orcadian, before moving into public relations work. He's been freelance since 2002, producing news and feature articles for a wide variety of publications, in addition to undertaking copywriting projects for clients throughout the UK. He's occasionally appeared on TV and once managed to skateboard on camera while delivering a news report. When not surfing or skateboarding badly, he enjoys walking in the Scottish mountains, lifting weights and training in martial arts. He also has a passion for action movies and cries when watching Rocky. --This text refers to the paperback edition.
- ASIN : B00V2K0VN8
- Publisher : Fledgling Press (16 March 2015)
- Language: : English
- File size : 1564 KB
- Text-to-Speech : Enabled
- Screen Reader : Supported
- Enhanced typesetting : Enabled
- X-Ray : Not Enabled
- Word Wise : Enabled
- Print length : 288 pages
- Best Sellers Rank: 1,153,433 in Kindle Store (See Top 100 in Kindle Store)
- Customer Reviews:
4.6 out of 5
24 global ratings
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Top reviews from other countries
So much to loveReviewed in the United Kingdom on 26 October 2015
One person found this helpful
A great read, and not just for outdoor enthusiasts and ...Reviewed in the United Kingdom on 14 April 2017
Devoured this book in two sittings. A great read, and not just for outdoor enthusiasts and armchair surfers like myself but has appeal to all. My son enjoyed it too. The author comes across as a genuinely likeable guy and both his physical and philosophical journey are inspiring. I have been tempted to go and dig up that old surfboard from a friend's storage unit , and the rusty skateboard has been recovered from the shed!
Good bookReviewed in the United Kingdom on 2 December 2018
Maybe a little too in-depth for my son
An honest story about surfingReviewed in the United Kingdom on 23 November 2017
There were many paragraphs in this book that I can relate to. David gives an honest and very familiar account of what it's like for a 30 -40 year old to take up surfing in Northern Europe.
Mr. P. M. Hodgson
An excellent readReviewed in the United Kingdom on 2 May 2017
As a skater and ex surfer this book brought the memories flooding back, it is well written and I couldn't put it down I read it in an afternoon and was gutted to Finnish it. If you have ever been on a board you will enjoy this.
One person found this helpful