A brilliantly told tale of doing things because you love them even if you are not overly talented at them and convention suggests that you're too old to be doing them. The beauty of this book is in following the author's struggle, sharing in his (sometimes small) triumphs and empathizing with his setbacks. I've ready many surfing books and what really chimes with me about this one is that it is the story of what most of us go through learning to surf. There is no moment of epiphany when it all just clicks into place, no previously unknown and untapped natural talent - just struggle and perseverance. It's the classic thing of life being a journey, not a destination and if you don't love the journey - even when it's hard - what's the point?
Of course, as a 40-something who returned to skateboarding (longboarding) later in life and started surfing even later I might be a little biased! :-)
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